Review Build: Salt Lake Temple

I was cautioned to expect a lather-rinse-repeat experience before I ever began this model. It had been done and said by several previous constructors. They all mentioned that as a caution to be ready, not as a negative thing. They were correct. Many things are the same, but take a look! This is a powerful and stunning object. The repetition is worthwhile because of the complexity and layering.

However, I was taken aback to see that there was an entire area of the structure that I was completely unaware of. Because the product photo on the box gives the impression that the structure is symmetrical and straightforward—not tricky, but in other ways—I hadn't looked at the 360. However, from the perspective of the product shot, there is a vast "annex"-like expansion on the "back" of the structure.

Even though this build is massive and spectacular, there aren't many distinct aspects to capture for the gallery up top. However, that's alright. Because this one is more about the whole, This build's diminutive size was the second most surprising aspect. The amount of layering and intricacies is what gives the impression that it must be more extensive. However, it is a little bigger than the model's picture on the box. I promise. I'm such a nerd that I snapped a photo to prove it:

The only real difficulties with this construction are a few difficult-to-align-the-tabs-and-slots portions. The entire item is devoid of any curved surfaces! Even so, there are still a few things to be aware of and things to watch out for. The first is simply recording all of the sub-assemblies you create during the process. Many of the phases in this construction ultimately amount to little more than integrating the output of earlier steps. Thus, there is a great deal of "front-loading," followed by what appears to be a quick building assembly. I like to knock out my pieces before making a model, as many of you are aware, but this one added another level of knocking. In order to knock out the outcomes of the previous processes, I ultimately used a second knocking sheet with masking tape across the magnets. In order to designate the step numbers, I included the masking tap. Among these was the "repeat 16 times" step. This was an important step to keep things straight because so many of these assemblies and preparations are incredibly similar.

You spent the majority of the first half of this project filling that out, so I hope I didn't frighten you away with that knolling of formed sections. Fortunately, the elaborate layered spires are the first thing you see. After that, there are a few thin wall segments (over the doorways and stairs), but mainly columns. Columns, columns, and more columns. Some are taller than others. Some have a bottom edge at a varied angle. Half of the column is absent from some. However, the "capstone" arrangement at the top of the majority of them is essentially the same. By the end, you will become rather proficient at forming that.

Let's start by discussing those finely stacked spires, though! They are simple and must be among the build's best aspects. I can comment on the directions in this area because the octagonal cones are pretty simple since I disagree with the idea of encircling the bases with walls. Approaching a rectangle wrap-around like this in the "opposite" direction that the instructions typically specify is, in my experience, much more straightforward. In particular, I begin by folding the section away from the tab at the end of the two-segment side and into a U-shape (well, a J-shape). The slot at the end of the two-segment side is what I like instead. After that, I proceed as usual, fastening the base on all three sides inside the wrap-around portion. The discrepancy then becomes profitable Folding because a slide with a slot over the protruding tab is more straightforward than trying to fit the tab that is jutting out too far into the slot that holds it in place. Unless you want to try inserting the tab from the outside in by folding the slot "inwards," which never works effectively and leaves a gap at the joined edge, yes, I've given this too much thought.

Oh, and while I was inside, I did give these spires a little flair. I slightly bent the small pillars at the top of the walls' four corners so that their tips would meet more closely. Then, on the corner, I turned the small finial tip device at the end to a 45-degree angle. From every perspective, it looked better and more consistent. I enjoy making minor adjustments like that, but it's completely optional.

As I read through the instructions, I realized that I won't be getting many detailed comments on this build; instead, I'll be getting broad comments that apply to many of the build's recurring circumstances. So... quick fire?

It's stressful to form all the taller columns. Fortunately, Metal3dpuzzles employed the "relief cut" technique for these folds, meaning that only two or three tiny perforation pieces need to be folded, with straight cuts in between. The drawback is that because these side strips are so thin, it's simple to bend them entirely out of shape. Take your time. It is mind-numbing to fold all of the columns' "capstones." little flaps and attempt to fold that back correctly. First, fold the lower crease to 45 degrees and then the upper crease to 90 degrees. Next, complete the lower crease. At least, that's how I attempted to do it.

There are numerous places in the building where you will need to attach window "backings." There may be a single window or a group of windows next to each other. Don't fold the tabs if you want the windows to look straight. This also applies to every column. As someone who enjoys folding tabs when I can, I say this.

Additionally, I tried folding the first few columns and windows, but it made them all wonky. You don't have to worry about space; you can twist the tabs to open the windows. The columns, however, tell a different tale.

It may be fastened with a straightforward twist. However, some might obstruct neighbouring sections if they were twisted into the path. Therefore, when I was joining the columns, I mostly folded and twisted the tabs. This also enabled me to attach the columns for the "vertical" window block backings before the window backings, defying the instructions. According to the directions, you must attach those first. After that, it becomes challenging to acquire a decent seat on the column tabs and to reach the tabs so you may twist them.

When making all the building portions that are topped by those stacked spires, there is another area where I disagreed with the directions. Each set of instructions states that all of the columns should be attached before the components are folded up. I strongly advise you to disregard that and fold the essential pieces first. You should fold them all the way to the other side, which is not what I usually recommend. When folding, these have pretty strong edges, and if you are attempting to complete the fold after the columns are attached, the neighbouring etch line may wind up bending some instead. Getting the spire inside is a little entertaining, but starting with full 90-degree folds improves the fold significantly. I know this because I tried it both ways. I started with my typical method, which involves 75-degree folds, and then I tried the entire 90. I wish I had begun in that manner.

Naturally, getting inside these adds a little fun, but I promise it's worth it. And once you've constructed them, don't expect them to look rectangular. At least until I started assembling all the pieces, mine were really crooked and not "parallel rectangular solid" formed at all.

The thin wall parts you construct in Step 5 must be attached in Steps 29 and 30. Expect to feel frustrated. This section contains multiple tabs to align and is thin and manageable. Oh, and the lowest tab appears to be only a tenth of a millimetre below the bottom, at least in the one I constructed. It resists being forced into position. Combine that with the three top tabs and the small crenellation that nearly runs into a column. And it contains profanity. However, it can be survived.

Here's a small element that caught me off guard. There are some incorrectly labelled Step references in Step 24, at least in my instructions and the most recent version available online; the columns designated as Steps 13 and 15 are switched. Step 13 (with the angled bottom edge) should be on the left of the two columns, and Step 15 (with the flat bottom edge) should be on the right.

The following is merely an intriguing note rather than any serious advice. I don't particularly like how the annex's outer face is attached in Step 27 when you are using the small annex-type expansion to build the temple's side. The facing is attached at three points: the middle top, followed by the bottom corners. I don't know why this was done this way. However, that is just fastened to the side's corner columns and not to the annex's actual sides. Rather, the annex's sides are where the top of the corner column is fastened. It results in an odd and shaky relationship. You can even see the outcome, as one edge of the bottom protruded slightly during the photo session above, making it appear crooked. Since then, I've managed to get it to sit correctly, but I haven't bothered to take another picture. Do you realize that mistakes are a natural part of the building process?

Up to the very end, the remainder of the build is essentially the same. When the roof is finally attached, things become complicated. It fits snugly to start. Furthermore, some overhanging tab slots that could obstruct the roof's ability to be "slid" into place are not helpful. Apart from that, though, the first half isn't too bad. In order to facilitate the second half, you should consider slightly overfolding the roof peak. This will allow you to assemble the remaining sections of the model without having to align them with the roof slots simultaneously. Once all of the remaining "outer sections" have been attached, you can "unfold" the roof into position and fasten the tabs. Finding a nice viewing angle to line the slots to the tabs is enjoyable (albeit difficult), but it is undoubtedly doable.

Straightening out all the columns, spires, tips, and other details was the final stage, at least for me. Not to mention folding and twisting the absolute spire cone tops. Because I like that, I decided to line the outer for spire toppers at a 45-degree angle. However, that took up a significant amount of time. And since no one wants to see me do that, it wasn't captured on camera.

Okay, so for those of you who have read this far, I'll include a few extra photographs at the end. I'm a bit wordy, so I won't blame you if you skimmed it. Naturally, this model is excellent in its current state, but it's also ideal for the most straightforward "mod" ever—if it can even be referred to as such. This model's middle section is essentially open, and it's large enough to accommodate an LED tea light. So, you realize that I had to give it a try?

Additionally, I chose to take a small, Weird Perspective picture because my phone has a macro-lens camera. Strange because of what I ultimately did with it (faking a camera auto-focus cycle because a macro lens prevents the entire photo from being in focus at once). Perspective because... well, I wanted to attempt to make it look like you were standing there, photographing the actual building from close up. So, here you have it:

This build took me about eight hours, based on the length of the entire video, plus some fine-tuning time. I want to express my gratitude to Metal Earth/Fascinations for sending me this model for review; despite the fact that it was a bit repetitive, I really liked it. The outcome is stunning. Even though I doubt anyone would want to see so much repetition, I will still include the build videos as usual.