Review Build: Model T Runabout

I am delighted to introduce to you the 1925 Ford Model T Runabout, which I received for evaluation from Fascinations. The hues of this new collection of vintage Ford vehicles provide depth and contrast. You can't really complain about the colors here, though some of you prefer the traditional silver. It feels natural.

This beautiful classic is quite striking. Of the new line, it has the most unique form, and I was excited to begin with it. Obviously, the part that caught my attention the most was the gorgeous roof/cover. But Metal3dpuzzles' attention to detail can be found throughout (and under) this model, as always. From the spokes in the wheels to the highly detailed undercarriage, I really like how this one turned out. I was intimidated by it, but it was so worth it.

I like the difficulty of this project, in addition to the lovely outcomes. I would place this model in between experienced and challenge-seekers, so it's definitely not a beginner. This model is complex because of many of the curves that give it a lovely appearance. Ultimately, I formed the majority of the curves based on instinct and got them roughly correct. The instructions don't provide a straightforward way to explain the intricacies of the curves. But that's not the only issue with this model. Let's now discuss my review in more detail.

This model has a sheet of gold components, but some of them are entirely painted black, which is one of its most intriguing features. Additionally, these parts are utilized as though they were black parts. It really comes down to their desire for some gold accents without creating a fragile gold sheet. In any case, the words "black side" or "gold side" will appear in a few places in the instructions. Unfortunately, there are no call-out markings on them to show which side of the part is that color. You can typically tell which side is which, though you assume that the black side will be the one that is visible when the model is finished. Therefore, bear it in mind while you construct this model.

Part 8, which they fortunately supplied an extra of, was the first major challenge I encountered. It is intended that this small strip be joined after being bent into a semicircle. It was not a problem to curve. It was attached. It just mangled the section when I tried to fold and twist it. I then removed it and made another attempt with the excess but without the fold. At least it wasn't mangle-flattened, even though it's still not perfect (it isn't easy to rotate the tab without somewhat warping the part).

For me, part 9 was the next obstacle because I was a little confused. It alters the way the portion folds up, but I'mI don't know if that was due to an error in the instructions or in the way the parts were cut for me. In the graphic below, I've attempted to depict the distinction. Since it's difficult to describe in words, this would make things simpler. One pleasant benefit is that the way it was cut made it easier to shape. When attempting to fold it according to the directions, it just became really confusing.

Using part 16 as guidance for the curve's size and profile is helpful when constructing the curves on part 15. Alternatively, section 19 may also be beneficial. Oh, and be careful when making section 16/19 by folding the tabs. They will likely protrude slightly and cause obstructions while sitting this section under part 15 if you fold them flat down (in comparison to the orientation in the call-out instructions). Therefore, either fold the tabs up and curl them back over or snip off the end (after slotting but before folding). It will simplify your life when you link these components to part 15.

I was doing something incorrectly at this time, thus I missed this information that would have really helped me as I was developing the model. Regretfully, I missed the fold on component 23, which is denoted by the orange highlights and blue lines. It's in the panel where it's being attached to the assembled portion of the model, not the panel where it displays forming component 23. Although the bend must fit on correctly, you might believe that you made a mistake and damaged the model when connecting it if you didn't see that it was meant to fold or bend. Believe me, I am aware.

The genuinely artistic aspect of this build then begins. Forming the roof or cover and the body. Although it's more of an art than a science, I would like to offer you some guidance on how to proceed. However, it could be simpler for you to attach parts 26 and 27 before making the curves on part 25. Since I can generally catch it by reading the instructions ahead of time, I wish I had. However, I didn't do that this time. I'm sorry.

Now, for the challenging part. It's more complex than that artistry, yes. I think I said, "Wait, you want me to do what?" at that point in the build. Then, "That's not possible!" came next. However, as it happens, it is. In a way. What am I discussing? Part 32, the body panel directly beneath the windshield, is being formed by it. This is the section where you are instructed to bend the portion in both directions but perpendicularly. Curving flat metal along two perpendicular axes is a complex undertaking; I'm not sure about you. However, if they are bending away from one another along the third vertical axis, the situation deteriorates. Did I just become overly mathematical? Apologies. Take a look at the image below. The outer borders of the portion should be lower than the middle as you bend over it at the front or bottom. However, you should bend a wide lip upward at the top/back of the section so that the back is higher. That is not what flat metal wants to do. Did I also mention that the flaps on the other two edges are also being folded down? Because it was already too convoluted. However, you can actually make it accomplish all of that with a lot of care and tiny curvature adjustments.

Fortunately, the following phases are not as harsh. They feel easy in comparison, but it's not really that easy. Additionally, they offer the benefit of allowing one to observe how all of the creative curves form the vehicle's main body. It also has a seductive appearance! As stated in the instructions, I do suggest bending over the slots to put the tabs from the outside in since this creates a much neater appearance. My method for bending over tabs involves levering the slot over to an angle by inserting the blunted tip of a hobby knife through the slot. This method has the benefit of keeping the slot from closing, which would make it difficult to seat the tab.

Additionally, component 40's hood ornament is a delicate, insufficiently roomy folding exercise. Despite their apparent size in the directions, the tiny flaps are actually little. To avoid messing up the folds on the next flaps, I started folding over some of the more minor flaps using the back of a hobby knife's blade.

Unfortunately, we have to go back into the breach and begin with sections 45 and 46. For me, these were the most challenging sections to form. The instructions provide some advice, but since they are just two-dimensional, you can only learn so much from them. Although it's still a problematic cookie, you should look at the Metal Earth website's 360-degree view for guidance on how to construct these. I was never able to shape these pieces to my satisfaction, but plucking portions 53 ahead of time can help you get the form closer. I actually played with them so much that I started to worry that my initial attempt was making things worse. As a result, my front fenders are now flaring out to the sides in what appears to be far too much abandon. They should line up over the front wheels and stay parallel to the runners and rear wheel covers, but I was unable to do this. In the end, I had to give up to avoid damaging the model in the process.

Contrary to what the instructions indicate, these pieces' triangular sections do not just fold over and flat; instead, they have some curvature. I don't know exactly what it is. Since I had already released section 53, I decided to attach it here. While I was at it, I also fastened pieces 54 to the rear wheel covers (so that you know it's much simpler to create the rear wheel wells and covers).

We next go on to a little glitch that I discovered in my copy of the instructions. In actuality, the glitch only draws attention to one of the many features that make Metal Earth tutorials the greatest. It's not a huge concern. However, com, component 46, which is used twice in the instructions, has the same color, yet the parts diagram on the first page has a different color. I wanted to call it out in order, even though I spotted it while knocking off the set. Furthermore, it's not really an issue. Because of the error, I've noticed how much I value the color matching and how it makes finding the sections easier.

The spokes end up inset into the wheels, and I really enjoy how easy it is to form the wheels. This is an excellent move on Metal Earth's part. Although it is a little repetitive, bending in all the small tabs on the inside of the tires' external faces gives them a lovely, three-dimensional appearance. It's well worth it. As long as none of the wheels are mounted backward, attaching them is simple. It's still manageable, but when you discover that only one wheel is inverted (the spokes' color is inward), it's difficult to correct. You have to take off the axle cap, untwist the tabs, turn it around, tighten the tabs again, and then put the axle cap back on. Even if the repairs were made off-camera, that is, after the model was finished, but before any pictures were taken. Specifically, not that I would know. I never use sarcasm, either.

The last step in the build is building and installing the spare tire, and it's actually quite simple. You certainly wouldn't be complaining about it by now, but there are a few awkward times when attempting to access tabs to fold over. You'll be grinning as you see this stunning build come to life and feel proud of yourself for overcoming this difficult project.

I spent more than five hours (not including knocking time) building this beauty over four build sessions. I had a great time and suggested this model to anyone looking for a nice challenge. My build films, replete with errors (just no audio or editing), are available in the YouTube playlist below.