Review Build: Hogwarts Express (ICONX)

Whoa. Fascinations sent me this model to review a while ago, and I finally got around to it. It is also significant, shining, and beautiful. I regret not building it sooner, but I had just received the Books-A-Million Hogwarts Express exclusive at the same time. I wanted to keep things more varied and blended rather than doubling down on a very identical model. After that, they kept looking for new models to construct.

When Metal3dpuzzles creates these larger models, the results are just excellent. Naturally, they have also begun to produce highly detailed tiny models, but this makes the build much more challenging. With this one, you may enjoy some of the exquisite details and stunning outcomes without having to deal with tiny components. I hope they continue to operate ICONX and Premium Series trains. However, I still have to build those and get the Wild West trains. Not enough time, too many models?

The pipe pop-out component, or whatever it is called, on the interior of the engineers' compartment is one of my favorite aspects of this project. In fact, it appears that plumbing is given a lot of thought in this construction, especially on the train's "nose," and I genuinely enjoy that type of detail. Although they weren't required to, it gives the model a genuine sense of depth, mainly when it's in a small, obscure location. The scale of this construction was another excellent feature; it made it much simpler to read the HOGWARTS EXPRESS logo on the front and sides, as well as the engine number. It also looks stunning.

I didn't find this model to be as challenging as I had anticipated. Although it wasn't straightforward, a lot of it was relatively simple. Like many automobile models, the very end, where you merge two of the more significant components, is practically a nightmare. However, I have a tip that might make it easier for you, but I'll leave that for later. Fortunately, building the undercarriage for the two sets of smaller wheels in the front of the model is not too tricky at first. But before you attach sections two and three, I will advise you to pre-fold the long edges slightly. If you've been reading this blog for a while, you've probably heard this advice before and are sick of it, but if you "break it in" a little, it makes finishing the fold much more straightforward.

The shading on part 14 of the assembly diagram briefly confused me before I could start creating those front three wheels. Usually, that dark gray indicates that the part is on the back, but this isn't the case. That side—in this case, the "painted" side—is indicated with an engraved callout. The brake pad area that extends into the spokes section, however, can only be on the "left side" when the pain is looking out, which is the most apparent feature. The goal, I suppose, is to paint the wheel such that the spokes are visible through the outer coat.

According to the instructions, you should thoroughly fold the edges of part 20 before attaching parts 21 when you begin assembling the undercarriage that houses the three sets of giant wheels. You should attach part 21 after partially folding it (maybe 30 degrees?) and then finish the fold before attaching part 22. It isn't easy to properly fasten the tabs for three of the pieces 21 that you attach because they wind up quite close to the fold. However, in order for item 22 to be correctly joined, the fold must be completed to 90 degrees. I decided to glue the tabs after I had already attached section 21 because they weren't straight or stable.

The platform that the boiler tank rests on is first formed in step 8, with a few minor curves at the front and rear. You can check ahead (far ahead) to parts 106 and 108 for reference and guidance if, like me, you were unable to determine the exact size of the curve and the initial angle from the instructions' little diagram. It will demonstrate, in part, that the starting angles on part 29 are 90-degree folds down. Before applying the curves, I highly recommend that you first construct them 90-fold.

After that, you can attach a lot of parts in what appears to be a random arrangement. Far more features than the scaled-down Hogwarts Express. Anyway, let's get back to the order of odd feelings. You should change things up a bit. In particular, sections 40 and 41. Despite being shorter than part 40, part 41 is located directly next to it, making it challenging to hold in place while fastening it. I know because I followed the directions exactly, and it wasn't enjoyable. Just make sure to leave space for 40 to slide in next to 41 when you attach it.

Then, in a seemingly arbitrary turn of events, you construct a steam pipe while constructing the boiler tank platform. Although it's not truly random, it feels that way since it's most likely done this way to maximize the amount of space in the instructions. Anyway, it has one of those cylinder caps with the flaps all around that fold down (part 46) when you work on it, and I wanted to provide a method I've found to be helpful in creating these. Once all the flaps have been folded down, I will attach the "cap" to the end of a cylinder that is the right size and roll it back and forth, just like I would when shaping a standard ring-style cylinder. This gives it a more natural appearance and curves out the flaps reasonably effectively. Oh, and you may use part 61 to apply this method to the second steam pipe later.

You then proceed to the piston assemblies. These devices, which are located beneath the platform, are what move the wheels. Based on my previous constructions of the smaller versions, I knew coming into this that I would not appreciate it. However, it was a little easier than the smaller models, maybe only because it's bigger. Additionally, I could have some experience making this shape. Forming the curve at the bottom, folding the piston arms out, and then folding the sides in was how I went about it. Because there was more room to reach inside with the pliers, attaching the tiny valves that hang off the bottom was undoubtedly simpler. This time, I definitely should have used adhesive, but I decided against it just to be safe because the presence of these components makes attaching them to the platform challenging. Since you're doing your hardest not to bend up the tiny things, there's nowhere decent to hang onto it and brace it in place while securing the tabs!

The following step was the boiler tank, which was much simpler than I had anticipated. Although I forgot to leave the bottom open until the very end, I joined everything even though the two portions were neatly fastened together. Part 65 was the most difficult to attach. Because the tabs tilt inward toward one another and the slots are too far apart to allow them to glide into place, these are challenging to install. I, therefore, adopted my typical strategy for situations like this. I laterally rotated and bent the tabs away from one another. In other words, I twist the tab to the side to create a better angle so that the tabs line up with the slots, but the entire section remains flat and level. I hope this image helps you understand it.

And now we reach this build's real enemy. Furthermore, it doesn't combine the two parts. That was definitely annoying, but I didn't have as much trouble with it as I had with the following two assemblies. Of course, not because they are challenging to put together. However, once linked, they are difficult to avoid manipulating.

In contrast to the smaller kits, I genuinely value the second piece's addition to stabilizing these, although I made a mistake and attached one of them to the incorrect side. One of the tabs then snapped off when I turned it back around. And as I pulled it back apart, I somewhat damaged it. However, that was nothing compared to the damage it sustained as I handled the model further after attaching it. After installing, I attempted to glue the tabs in place. However, the front tabs did not adhere properly to the adhesive. As a result, they are loose and shaky on my model, but ultimately not too horrible.

What am I going to recommend? Folding an edge in advance! I realize I'm wasting my time. But I'm telling you, it truly does help! Particularly with these aspects of the conductor's or engineers' cabin. Alongside these edges are a few thin strips to which a number of objects are attached, as well as a highly cool section that symbolizes all of the pipes and tubes. So, yes. It will be much simpler to complete the fold later if you break in and pre-fold that edge a little.

I have one big tip and one tiny tip left to share. First, I recommend against interconnecting the two separate assemblies in step 25 if you want to simplify the process of connecting the boiler/cabin part to the platform/undercarriage section. Instead, construct them now but only attach them once the boiler is installed. I couldn't get anything down there to move the tabs around, so I had a terrible time aligning them to the holes at this stage. It was not a nice angle, and there was only one point of access. Though it would have been a lot simpler if I had put those two assemblies off until after I finished that, I did eventually get it to go in. The second piece of advice is that the directions for mounting the crossbar (part 113) to the boiler section's front rails are strange. The arrows show that it should be attached from the front; however, it is going straight through component 101. Please keep in mind that it is intended to come after part 101.

This model concludes. I finished the build in just over eight hours, significantly less time than I had anticipated.