How Do I Read the Instructions?

The Metal Earth instructions are self-explanatory, so this will likely be the shortest of the Getting Started posts. They are also the best instructions available for metal model enthusiasts. However, even if the directions become straightforward reasonably fast, there are still parts that are not immediately apparent, so it would be beneficial to share this with others who are just starting.

360 View Link / QR Code

The first thing you should be aware of is that almost all models come with a QR Code, which is one of those cool square-dot bar codes that you can scan with your phone to see the model in 360 degrees. By manually inputting the URL that is displayed next to it, you can also access the 360-degree view. Unfortunately, even though the instructions are written with a link or QR code, not all models have their 360 views published. However, since you can freely spin and zoom in on the model, the 360 View is a terrific tool for helping you comprehend how to form portions when you are puzzled. Fun fact: the model number is really represented by the letters and digits at the end of the URL.

Parts Sheet Diagrams

You'll likely notice what I refer to as the Parts Sheet Diagram(s) next. Every component sheet in the model will have its diagram. This often appears on the first page of the instructions, but in cases when there are multiple part sheets, it may extend to the second page. This schematic will be used to find the pieces by their numbers, which are often self-explanatory.

Having multiples of a particular part is the only part of this that is not immediately apparent. Parts of a model are frequently repeated and occasionally utilized in several sections of the instructions. In other instances, Metal Earth adds more components that they believe could break or be lost quickly. Additionally, these sections are easily recognized in almost all instructions, with the exception of the oldest ones, because they are coloured. Additionally, every duplicated component is given a distinct colour if feasible. If this is the case, you will typically only see a number indicator pointing to one of the coloured sections on the diagram; the other sections can be easily found by colour (unless you are sadly colour-blind, in which case the various luminosities should be helpful). With the exception of those where there are several of a single item in close proximity, some earlier instructions do not use this colour coding and instead identify the majority of the parts with a number indicator. However, the updated instructions, which now include coloured sections, are a significant improvement. This is partially due to the fact that the instructions themselves use the same colour to designate the necessary part, which facilitates part location.

Another addition to some of the more recent guidelines is assigning a capital letter beginning with A to every sheet. Both the sheet letter and the part number will be used to identify the parts when you follow the steps in these kinds of instructions (though it becomes a little inconsistent for parts that are replicated over numerous pages). One of the reasons I like Metal Earth models is that they are constantly trying to make things better, which greatly speeds up finding the pieces.

Additionally, occasionally, areas of the page are identified by letter rather than number. That letter is typically crimson. These actually exist; however, I'm not sure what makes them unique yet. Additionally, for added enjoyment, you can have several colours of digits in the most recent models.

Symbols

Each instruction sheet describes and explains the four fundamental symbols used in Metal Earth models. Those symbols can be divided into two categories: surface symbols and tab symbols.

The recommended way of tab security is indicated by the tab symbols, which are either a blue circle or a green triangle. Blue circles indicate folds and green triangles indicate twists. Although there aren't always strict guidelines for these signs, I suggest folding a tab wherever it is instructed. I mention this because there are instances in which a later part will not fit over a twisted tab. After all, it is in the way if you do not fold the tab. It goes without saying that if you fold a tab into a surface where another part is meant to sit flush, the same thing can be said.

The definition of twisting and folding tabs is relatively straightforward. Although I prefer to twist a tab just a little bit less than 90 degrees and never more than 90, the manual defines twisting as 90 degrees. When you make a mistake, this makes it simpler to figure out how to untwist a tab. Since you fold the tab over flat to the surface it is sticking through, folding tabs is also quite simple. But sometimes, it's difficult to remove a folded tab, so you can use a method I picked up from @animateorange. Twist a tab until you have enough of the model together for it to be more stable, then fold that tab down.

The two most common surface symbols are a black-filled circle with the letter E within and a white-filled circle with the letters NE inside. A call-out line typically indicates the surface that these two symbols are referring to. The letters E and NE stand for Engraved and Not Engraved, respectively. It is simple to understand, with the exception of pieces that are engraved on both sides, which are frequently found on cylindrical parts. The graphical engraving side is typically regarded as engraved in that situation, but I usually confirm by looking at reference photographs, such as the model box or 360 View. Only the multi-colour models can use the third surface symbol that was recently added for painted surfaces. This symbol is a call-out filled with the letter P in a pea-green colour.

Oh! Another symbol exists, albeit it isn't used very often. It's a pointing finger meant to draw your attention. It indicates that you should definitely review that section of the instructions. Occasionally, a tab needs to be folded. In other cases, it contains a brief passage of text alerting you to a danger or describing something significant. To date, the warning that a dragon model's fangs are sharp has been my favourite. A designer must have been thrilled to draft that.

Build Steps

At last, the building steps begin! Even if some of the things you'll learn to identify in the build steps are clear, I'm going to point them out here. It's known as thoroughness. or compulsive. One of the two. Perhaps both.

Red Arrows: these arrows indicate the direction in which a tab should be inserted.

Red Highlighted Slots: A slot into which a tab will be placed, typically attached to the tip of a red arrow.

Blue Arrows: The purpose of these arrows is to demonstrate how to fold or shape the components. The degree to which the arrow's line bends strongly in the center will frequently give you a sense of how sharp a fold should be (however, you must consider perspective when illustrating the 3D nature of objects). When a line is curved, it means that the component must be shaped into a curve that nearly corresponds to the line's shape.

Red Surfaces: To highlight the necessity for folding or shaping during the build process, a surface is frequently painted red. The red colour is often only visible on the other surfaces when several surfaces are folded in succession. Additionally, look for faded-red areas that may be concealed below a part's frontmost surface and fold back away from the view.

Red Tabs: These are highlighted to draw attention to the tabs being folded, just as red surfaces. Since it's easy to overlook these occasionally, I mentioned them separately. Additionally, similar to the red surfaces, you should keep an eye out for tabs that fold back behind the part's visible surfaces (as shown in the instructions).

Bend Guide Call-outs: There will occasionally be a call-out with a blue line that zigzags and possibly curves on really complex multi-fold stages. Some writing along the lines of "fold to look like this" will be included. It discusses an edge-on perspective of the part when you see this. These are really helpful.

Dark Surfaces vs. Light Surfaces: Generally speaking, a darkish surface that isn't colored indicates that it's an inner surface, often known as non-engraved. Similarly, the outside surfaces (or those that are painted or engraved) are typically light or unshaded. Though less frequent, it is occasionally used to show how the surfaces are inclined to one another. However, keep in mind that this shading is superseded by N or NE symbols.

Multipliers: There are instances when you must act more than once. These items are typically denoted by red lettering consisting of an x and a number.

Sub-Assembly Identifiers: Certain models can get really complex, and you will have to construct multiple sizable sections that aren't instantly connected. In certain instances, the sub-assemblies are recognized by circled letters; in other cases, the step number that completed the sub-assembly will be referenced. When it's the letter, it will be at the end of the sub-assembly construction process as well as when you eventually fasten it to something.

Final Words

I was able to get much more out of this post than I had anticipated. Let me do it. I'm just rambling all the time. I did come up with a thought that doesn't belong anywhere else in this post: don't give up if you misplace your directions! The majority of the instructions on the Metal Earth website are available on Fascinations (although in lower quality and with watermarks due to counterfeiters), and many of the ones that are difficult to locate there are available on the Metal Earth Wiki, Reddit.