Build: Star Destroyer (Redeemed?)

Since I began this blog, this is the first "redemption" build I've completed. What does a redemption build mean? I'm going back to a build I've already completed because I didn't think I did it well the first time. Additionally, this was among my very first models. Since it's just a large wedge triangle, I assumed it would be simple to construct. No, it isn't. I had never used cones before, and it did not go well. That's how I remember it, anyway (more on that in another post).

In order to redeem my construct, I grabbed this model when I noticed that my neighborhood Books-A-Million had a few of them on clearance. Since I have a ton of new (to me) models to build and constantly getting more, it has been in my queue for a while. However, it would be good to take a brief respite and go over it again. Additionally, since I've previously constructed the majority of the Star Wars models, and they are rather popular, this would be a helpful one to evaluate for other builders. And wouldn't you agree that the Star Destroyer is pretty damn iconic?

As I mentioned before, this model wasn't as simple as I had assumed, but it's also not particularly difficult. Simply put, there are a few elements of the model that you are unaware of that won't be easy. The engine cones, which I have already discussed, were the expensive components I wanted to go over again in this model, especially now that I have specific tools for shaping cones. Conical shaping is likely the most challenging aspect of this design for you if you have never experienced it previously. However, there are a few more elements that are entirely unexpected.

The most noticeable is the first item you'll see. How far can I bend the enormous pieces that comprise this model's top and bottom? The fact that part 1 folding is never really mentioned in the directions doesn't help either. In any case, I wish I had a solid response to the "how much" question. Although defining something is really difficult, there are a few items that can give you a vague (I mean very ambiguous) concept of it: components that attach across the folds. Part 22, which is the basis or support for the bridge part, is the first one you will come across. It doesn't meet the fold vertically, but it does have a little triangular cutout on one edge that is intended to rest flush on top of it.

Parts 24–26, on the other hand, attach over the fold when folded. Does that help? The flaps that fold down to make that have some clipping on the ends to enable folding to the proper angle, and they have straight vertical parts that must cross that fold. It could be helpful to construct one of these to have a general understanding of the fold if you want to jump ahead in the instructions.

Part 14, which lies behind all of the engine cones to which they are linked, is another fold that is challenging to predict. This one is very annoying since, even if you get it perfect, once the model is put together, it doesn't seem correct because there are gaps at the top and bottom triangle apexes. Leave it slightly open from what you believe it should be in order to get the angle correct. Don't attach the big cones first, then. The fold angle of the main piece will be fixed for you if you put the two paired-cone panels within it. Next, fasten the three big cones. Lastly, before attaching it, give the top and bottom a minor outward curve to fill in any ugly gaps that may show up during the final assembly.

Returning to the bridge segment presents further difficulties. If you don't have tweezers or pliers with tiny tips, those tiny sensor balls on either side of the bridge are a pain in the ass. Additionally, before attaching the smaller components, I suggest only folding down the bridge's front or rear. Then, I would continue folding down the remaining sides. It allows you more breathing space.

Regarding the bridge stand, base, and support pillar (whoa, I'm bouncing around a lot), this is one of those occasions when I think Metal3dpuzzles made a small design error. Cutting out that small triangle to make it simple to get one end of the support flush was a nice idea, but why wasn't the other end taken out as well? Two solid items cannot occupy the same physical space, even though I know they will eventually be hidden inside other components. To make it fit better, I cut out my section with my flush cutters. Although it was a bit disorganized, it's inside other pieces. A portion of the entire build, where I perform the surgery, is seen here.

The two tiny strip pieces on either side of the raised structures on the top area of the model, Part 32, were the last grounds of dispute, at least for me. Two tabs that are parallel to one another are used to attach that section, which contains some trim pieces on the ends. Getting it fastened and solid is incredibly difficult because those tabs are parallel. I didn't mash the section down since I used a twist instead of a fold because the end flaps are too little and fragile to withstand that. When I twisted, all I needed to do was make sure I was gripping it correctly. And I was generally fortunate. It still took considerable persuasion to get one side to line up correctly.

Finally, before attaching the bridge portion, make sure to verify, double-check, and triple-check how it points. The first time I built it, I built it backward and had to take everything off and put it back on fully. I made a great effort to avoid doing that because the angled edge facing backward rather than forwards makes it very simple to confuse the back for the front. It seems like the best course of action to bring it forward because we're so accustomed to the "aerodynamic" appearance of slanted edges cutting into the wind for cars, but it's not!